Discovering the world, one bite at a time!

In The Ghetto (Of Goulash)

Today I had planned on heading to one on the many arts museums to get a splattering of culture before I leave this gem of a place. But this wasn’t any run of the mill, nose in the air gallery. That slop you can stare at it for a day and still be scratching the head. I was headed to the Budapest Pinball Museum, which is found under “Arts” in any guidebook. Look, they can train an elephant/arts student to paint but real talent is demonstrated when you can put your name up in lights with the top score on the Terminator 2 pinny. The Who & Elton couldn’t be wrong, could they?

I locate this field of dreams and being a Tuesday it is shut. I leave tomorrow, distraught, my chance for unlimited pinball for four hours and rubbing shoulders with true artists is now an itch I can’t scratch. Bloody volunteers and their busy schedules, you’d think they would be more considerate? Next time.
On hearing the news I decide that some comfort eating is in order. But first some aimless strolling around. Budapest is such a place of beauty and history you actually become “castle fatigued”. Everywhere you look there is something older and more wondrous than the one before. This particular monument is called the Circle Of Heroes and my poor photography skills doesn’t do this magnificent structure justice.

I have also visited the Parliament House and the St Stephen’s Bascilica, which is near my apartment. My Air BnB hostess, when giving me directions said to “head towards the Towers and from there…” On the first afternoon I had hopped off the bus, into the rain/cold I couldn’t get my bearings so I went to the Information Booth to get a map. As it was being handed over:
“Where are the towers?” I asked politey.
“We don’t hand out towels because of rain” was the response from the Italianguide. In the cold my lips don’t work making my already shitty speech borderline incomprehensible.


There was one place that I was fortunate to get to today, Getto Gulyas. Translated to “Ghetto Goulash” this would rank up there with the most enjoyable eating experiences of my life. Similar style of food that kept coming the other day at the Blue Rose, but this was quality over quantity.

This was going to be my penultimate meal in Hungary so let’s end this adventure with some memorable food. My waiter was an absolute champ. His dark shirt and jeans combined with a buzz cut and three day growth made me do a double take. I am sure he played Uncredited Bad Guy #3 from any Jason Statham action flick.
The menu has more subsections than the Tax Assessment Act so my first plate is an appetizer of Bone Marrow On Toast with roasted garlic and parprika. The marrow just fell out and the roasted garlic turns into a sweet spread. Additional toast soaks up the remaining juices. Stop the fight, anything from here will feel like a frozen dinner while watching Home & Away.

Next, goulash as entrée. I found out that goulash is a soup and not the main meal (that is the stew’s playground). Beef goulash in all its glory, a nation in a bowl. Very impressive but not in the same league as the marrow.

I had to pick from one of the stews. Decisions, decisions. I wanted an adventure and something different but I draw the line at eating Rooster Testicles and Cocks Comb stew. I did find a picture from their website for your viewing pleasure.

Chose the Veal Paprikash and it may be the wisest decision I have ever made in my life. Cubes of beef that have been braising away in a sauce that had me reaching for my bread (the toast had been interchanged) so that you mop up every last drop. Residing near the veal were two dumpling made of home made noodles cheese curd and cream. These were held together with bacon, because you can’t eat rope. This dish relegated the Bone Marrow to second.

Also ordered Hot Apple Peppers. One because I hadn’t chosen anything from the array of salads and it sounded unusual enough to be a local favourite. It looks like pickled capsicum because it is.

Finally Cheese Curd Dumplings. These had been whipped up to perfection with a toasty exterior. Unfortunately for Bone Marrow, you get the bronze tonight, dessert moved into second place.

Off to Prague tomorrow to continue this lil adventure.


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